John Biggar : Galloway Climbing Index

Rock Climbing in Galloway Index page

This is an index page to the crags of Dumfries and Galloway, all but one of which are in Galloway itself. Both rock and winter climbing are covered. There are links to further information pages for each crag containing photos, descriptions and route topos. Galloway is probably the most unfashionable rock-climbing venue in Britain, but it just happens to be where I live.

In fact the climbing here is pretty good, with excellent rock on most crags, and I have never had to queue for a route. It's just that some crags are a bit remote and difficult to get to by some peoples standards. But with a sense of adventure and (for some areas) a mountain bike, you can soon overcome these problems... Believe it or not, a short drive north from the queuing problems and the polished horrors of rock climbing in the English Lake District, and only an hour or two from the scabby quarries of the Scottish Central belt, many routes in Galloway suffer badly from a lack of traffic...

The links are to pages with many photos and big route topos. These are big files with many photo diagrams, and are often over 1Mb, please be patient while they download - recommended for Broadband only

On this page are links to information pages on all the major crags and some of the smaller ones I know well. There is now also a minor crags page with brief details of some of the smaller, poorer or less popular venues. We also have a specific page detailing New Climbs in Galloway that I have been involved with, mainly since the publication of the definitive 2004 SMC guidebook. Also for those interested in skiing check out our new Skiing in Galloway page.

Trouble choosing the perfect crag?? See our Galloway Crag Chooser page for tips about the best venues for serious adventures or mellow barbecues and picnics, and the best venues for an evening trip and worst venues for midgies and loose rock. There is also now a map at the bottom of this page.

For details of what the stars. grades, etc., mean see the bottom of the page or click here. Also read the notes and disclaimer.

Name, Photo & Link		Star Rating	Season	Routes	Notes
Clifton		*****	JFMAMJJASOND	12, 21, 11, 3	Easy access, classic routes and generally good protection make this the best evening venue. 10-20m routes
Clints of Dromore		*******	JFMAMJJASOND	10, 7, 4	A pleasant south facing crag, warm enough to climb here sunny days in winter. Routes to 60m.
Corwar		********	JFMAMJJASOND	2, 4, 5, 1	A good afternoon venue in spring and autumn, midgy in summer. Routes to 30m.
Craigdews		*******	JFMAMJJASOND	7, 10, 1	Covered in goats and goat inspired route names - both equally bad.! A few routes are up to 100m long.
Craigencallie		**	JFMAMJJASOND	5, 9, 4, 4	Can be damp and often midgy. Best in the mornings (unlike me!). Routes to 50m long.
Craighoar		*	JFMAMJJASOND	1, 4, 1	A nice wee venue with a sunny outlook and excellent 10m routes.
Craiglee		*******	JFMAMJJASOND	1, 7, 2	A very small area, but the rock is perfect and it has an idyllic grassy base. 10-15m high.
Craignaw - Memorial Crag		********	JFMAMJJASOND	4, 4, 6, 1	Very remote, but short (15m) and steep with excellent rock. Entirely bird free and mostly midge-free.
Craignaw - Snibe Hill		*******	JFMAMJJASOND	8, 11, 3, 1	Very remote and mostly very short routes, but south facing with excellent rock.
Craignaw - Ice		********	JFMAMJJASOND	Grades II-IV	Relies on a good 3-4 day winter freeze, no snow is necessary, routes to 250m long.
Crammag Head		********	JFMAMJJASOND	16, 20, 8, 2	Some excellent friendly wee areas and some bigger scarier granite sea-cliffs near the Mull of Galloway.
Dungeon Hill		********	JFMAMJJASOND	7, 15, 10, 3	A remote but excellent big cliff with lots of great rock. Mostly midge free, especially on windy afternoons. The biggest routes are 150m, but lots of shorter routes too.
Fleshmarket (Craig an Eilte)		**	JFMAMJJASOND	3, 7, 2	Some areas are very slow to dry, but the outlook is very scenic.
Fish Kettle & Kiln o' the Fuffock		*	JFMAMJJASOND	1, 8, 4, 7	Two nice areas a short walk south of Portobello.
Garheugh		**	JFMAMJJASOND	3, 10, 4, 4	A fairly limited climbing area, but an all year round bouldering venue (weather permitting of course..!)
Laggantalluch		*******	JFMAMJJASOND	14, 12, 15, 5	Big granite cliffs to 40m, on the west coast of the Rhinns, some high quality lines.
Larbrax		**	JFMAMJJASOND	1, 1, 5, 3	Lots of hard routes on steep 20m greywacke slabs in a lovely location.
Loch Grannoch		**	JFMAMJJASOND	10, 4, 2	Lots of wee slabs and walls up to 20m high on these mountain outcrops.
The Lookout		*	JFMAMJJASOND	3, 2	A very small climbing area near Sandyhills, pleasant for picnics and barbecues.
Meikle Ross		*******	JFMAMJJASOND	28, 38, 14, 3	Huge sea-cliffs with a great atmosphere but some dubious rock in places and lots of lichen. Routes from 10-60m long.
Merrick Icefalls		*******	JFMAMJJASOND	Grades II-VI	Big 200m icefalls that rely only on a good 3-4 day freeze. Snow is not necessary for many routes.
Mull of Galloway		*	JFMAMJJASOND	13, 14, 5, 1	Big atmospheric sea cliffs in an exposed and scenic location.
Point of the Cleugh		**	JFMAMJJASOND	3, 2	A nice wee 15m high granite slab just north of Crammag Head.
Portobello		*******	JFMAMJJASOND	14, 15, 10, 5	A small scenic area on the west coast of the Rhinns. Short routes, with a nice beach and grassy picnic area on site.
Rhinns of Kells Ice		*******	JFMAMJJASOND	Grades II-IV	Winter routes on Milldown at the southern end of the Rhinns of Kells. Many are best with some snow.
The Thirlstane		**	JFMAMJJASOND	4, 3, 1, 1	An excellent family picnic venue and bouldering spot on the beach near Dumfries. 10m high.
Minor Crags	A new page with brief details of smaller, less good and less popular areas.
Galloway Crag Chooser	Trouble choosing the perfect crag?? See our Galloway Crag Chooser page for tips about the best venues for serious adventures or mellow barbecues and picnics, and the best venues for an evening trip and worst venues for midgies and loose rock.

Star Rating	A crag star rating out of five is given. Stars (or part stars) are awarded in an approximate way for the following:- 1. quality of rock/ice, 2. quality of climbing, 3. accessibility, 4. likelihood of good conditions (weather/midges/weeping), 5. setting and scenery.
Season	Green = optimum season and/or conditions. Black = neutral, not optimal but climbing will be possible at times. Orange = bird nuisance in some areas, or poor climbing conditions very likely. Red = climbing not possible or bird ban.
Routes	The approximate number of average, good or excellent routes at these grades is given. Green VD, S, Blue VS, HVS, Red E1, E2, Black E3, E4 or harder Generally speaking poor routes are not mentioned on this website..!! This same colour coding system is used in the photo-topos deeper into this website.
Notes	I have only given information on this website on routes I have climbed personally, or have detailed personal knowledge of, and climbing areas I have visited. There is a lot more climbing in Galloway, particularly at the higher grades. The last definitive guide to be published was the SMC Lowland Outcrops guidebook, 2004 edition, available by mail order from Needlesports. There is some variation between grades as quoted in the guidebook and on this website - these reflect my abilities (slabs) and prejudices (I don't like jamming!).....
Disclaimer	Climb safe. All rock climbing is dangerous to some extent, as quality of rock, protection and the weather are all very variable and can influence the outcome of your day (and your life..!) Information given here is given in good faith but by the time you read this it will be out of date, maybe by just a few weeks, maybe by several years. Grades given should be treated with scepticism.

Pictured Below :- Giant tussock grass in Galloway, Winter 2006. Known locally as "Dougals" (...think of that wee dog in the Magic Roundabout...). These ones were on the way across the Silver Flowe towards Craignaw and were the deepest yet!

Giant tussock grass in Galloway, known locally as "Dougals", Winter 2006

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