John Biggar.com : Climbing Instructor and Guidebook Author

Laggantalluch Head rock climbing

Introduction   Laggantalluch Head is an area of granite sea-cliffs south of Stranraer, on the coast of the North Channel near the Mull of Galloway. It is widely regarded as the best of the sea cliffs in the southwest of Scotland.  Pictured above is an unknown climber on Krill Bill on a day when much of Scotland was damp, cold and dreich!

Access   The crags are mostly tidal, but with many routes still accessible at high tide and some completely on dry land. To get here follow the A77 or A75 towards Stranraer then the A716 down the east shore of the Rhinns to Drummore village. From here follow the B7041 then an unnamed minor road westwards to Portencorkrie Bay. A wee track runs down to the shore between Knockenculie and Barncorkrie farms. Just before the derelict cottage cut across two grassy fields to the north, rising slightly to reach a fence line running northwards (parallel to the shore) about 60m above sea level (marked on the 1:25,000 OS map). When the fence turns to the right leave it and go diagonally down the slope to reach the top of the main cliff. A total of about 15-20 minutes walk from the road to reach the crags. This route at first appears to climb higher than necessary, but after several visits I think it is the best way in. You can also walk closer to the shore round from the cottage to the crags, but it's much rougher walking.

Guidebook  For a definitive list of all the climbs at Laggantalluch Head see the SMC published Lowland Outcrops guidebook.

Dangers  This is a granite sea cliff  with generally good rock, but areas of dubious rock do exist on the bigger cliffs. Almost all the routes require abseil approaches, so are serious in nature and can be difficult to locate. Some of the slabby routes are difficult to protect as the granite can be very compact - a good rack of micro-wires and some small cams are recommended, as well as a steady head. This is a very open stretch of coast so the crag will be hazardous in big seas or high winds and the area is very open to rapid weather changes.


Main Cliff

The climbs at Laggantalluch detailed here are described from south to north, starting with the biggest and best area, appropriately called Main Cliff.

Laggantalluch main cliff

The main cliff has routes to 50m on the big slab on the right, and to 25m or so on the steep walls and fins to the left. There is a nice grassy hollow at the top of the usual abseil. Approach the routes by this short easy abseil, about 15m, the landing platform is nice and flat and above all but the very highest tide lines. Not pictured above is 1. Stepped Corner, VD, which is just left of Escape Route. Not far to the right of the abseil line the classic line on the main cliff is 4. Laggantalluch Corner, HVS 5a ***, pictured below. It's a well protected route and not as strenuous as it first looks.

A bit further right is the massive corner of The Holy Grail, HVS 5a, **.  Maybe worth *** stars. Easier than Laggantalluch Corner but still with some excellent climbing. It is sometimes wet. Picture below is Linda Biggar just below the crux.

the massive corner of The Holy Grail, HVS 5a, **, maybe owrth *** stars. Easier than Laggantaclluch Corner but still with some excellent climbing. It is sometimes wet.

To the right again is the main slab itself, often with poor protection. One or two of the routes are a bit lichenous at the top as well, but generally this does not affect the climbing too badly. Stingray is particularly nice, but it is a serious climb to second due to the potential of a pendulum fall into space above the sea!

Climbing Stingray on the main slab at Laggantalluch

Climbing Stingray on the main slab at Laggantalluch. This is pretty much the longest route at Laggantalluch, 55m with no real option to belay half-way.... make sure your second knows how to prussik!

Climbers at the belay on Krill Bill.


Lunch Bay

Immediately north of the main cliff is Lunch Bay, with a number of routes on a south facing wall. Access by scrambling carefully down the easy slab from above the abseil point for the Main Cliff.


Island Walls

This is probably the least serious area of Laggantalluch and a good introduction to the area. The climbs are on two steep walls up to 10m high directly opposite the long low island (pinnacle?) just north of the main cliff. Walk along the cliffs until above the island, then walk straight down towards it. There are some nice grassy bays at the top of the cliffs for dumping gear. There are two walls, split by a broad gully. You can access the more northerly routes by descending this gully (enter it by a sub-gully on the S side) or walking down a sloping ramp at the far north end. Most of the southerly routes require an abseil to a tiny platform.

Routes north of the gully are shown on the diagram above. The Blind Man, HS 4c, has a very awkward mantelshelf followed by a greasy groove, Good Morning Ladies, VS 5a takes the deceptively hard  L to R sloping diagonal crack, then Flying ArÍte, VD, ** takes the crack up the broad rib at the S end of the northern wall, finishing with a spectacular move L into the top corner laybacking the arÍte. Beyond Flying ArÍte is the broad ascent/descent gully, an "Easy" scramble.

The routes on the south wall are generally better, but impossible to photo. First is A Plaice by the Sea, HS 4b, ** the only one readily  accessible by the descent gully (and therefore a good place to start). It takes the diagonal crack to a square ledge then the very steep corner above. The remaining routes really require an abseil approach, or a committing traverse from the foot of "A Plaice..." at about Severe... next up are two routes on the nice wall R of A Plaice by the Sea, Skating VD, * and Bouillabaisse, S *, then Little Feat, VS 4c, ** takes the central corner, often damp. Finally Fish Tales HS 4b * takes a short diagonal crack to join the long R to L  flake line of The Fish Ladder VD which comes in from the extreme R.

 


Foaming Hoodlum Area


Quick Seal, E3, at Laggantalluch, Galloway

The hard initial moves on Quick Seal, E3, at the Main Cliff area of Laggantalluch, Galloway. You can also see the regular abseil line and gearing up site.!




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