John Biggar.com : Climbing Instructor and Guidebook Author

Larbrax beach at low tide.

Introduction  Larbrax is a very small but scenic area W of Stranraer, on the coast of the North Channel. There is a fairly short approach down a farm track and along a very nice beach. This page was compiled by John Biggar, a professional Mountaineering Instructor and member of the AMI, who lives in SW Scotland. Contact me if you want to know more about climbing in Galloway or want to learn how to climb or abseil. This page was compiled with care, but it is not guaranteed error free.

Access The crags are not affected by the tide or sea at all, although the walk in is certainly much quicker and more enjoyable if you can get along the beach at low tide (or 2-3 hours either side). To get here follow the A77 or A75 to Stranraer then the A718 and B7043 and finally an unnamed and private road down past Larbrax farm to Larbrax beach. Walk north along the big beach to a smaller hidden beach beyond. The slabs lie at the far end of this beach, with a nice grassy area at the base.

Guidebook For a definitive list of all the climbs and boulder problems at Larbrax, including the fine detail of how to climb those E6's,  see the SMC published Lowland Outcrops guidebook.

Dangers  These are greywacke slabs but the rock is generally very good. However the routes are very thin and sustained and the protection is pretty fiddly. Lots of small wires and micro's are recommended. 

A nice looking HVS takes the thin finger crack on the left side of the seaward slab. Bold E6's, Galloways hardest routes, take the centre of the Seaward and Right Slabs. The Central slab has several good E1's and the big corner on the Right Slab is a Hard Severe.

A nice looking HVS takes the thin finger crack on the upper left side of the seaward slab. Two bold E6's, which are currently Galloway's hardest routes, take the centre of the Seaward and Right Slabs. The Central Slab has several nice looking E1's and the big corner on the Right Slab is a Hard Severe. The slabs are about 20m high.

Page sponsored by Andes..... Andes : Climbing, Skiing and Treking in South America

HOME & CONTACT     COURSES    GALLOWAY CLIMBING     GUIDEBOOKS    NEW PHOTOS    TIPS & TRICKS    LINKS