The access to the Lookout is currently blocked by a new landowner and construction site. Statutory access rights under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code have not been taken into account by the council or the landowner when granting planning permission for this new development. Please write to gilbert.clark@dumgal.gov.uk to make your feelings about this lack of access known. In the meantime the only viable alternative is to walk 2km along the tidal and muddy foreshore from the beach at Sandyhills.!
Introduction The Lookout is a nice wee crag in Kirkcudbrightshire, on the Solway Coast between Sandyhills and Southerness and about 25km southwest of Dumfries. Though there are really only four or five 15m routes the climbing is nice and it's a great area to bring beginners. There is a short approach down a steep slope and great views over the sands of the Mersehead nature reserve on the Solway Firth. This page was compiled by John Biggar, a professional Mountaineering Instructor and member of the AMI, who lives locally. Contact me (details below) if you want to know more about climbing in Galloway or want to learn how to climb or abseil. This page was compiled with care, but it is not guaranteed error free.
Access To get here follow the A710 south from Dumfries, through New Abbey and Kirkbean. Lookout for a right turn signposted Southwick Church - this is the road up to Clifton. Just after this there is a big dip in the road and a small parking area by the bridge. Park here, walk about 200m up the hill westwards to a little holiday cottage known as the "The Lookout". On the left here find an overgrown concrete stairway which leads down the cliff, including some wire rope and some short sections of ladder (Galloway's only via-ferrata??). The two slabs are very near the bottom of this path, one on the right, one on the left.
Descent From the top of the Watchtower descend to the right to reach the approach path. From the Tombstone, scramble steeply down the back of the crag leftwards into a tunnel, through this and on down.
Guidebook Included on this page are the best routes at the crag. I climb and instruct regularly here and have climbed all the routes at this crag. For a definitive list of all the climbs in this area see the SMC published Lowland Outcrops guidebook.
Dangers The crag is almost non-tidal, indeed there is some nice soft grass at the foot of the routes. However at high springs this will be submerged and all routes will be affected. This is a friendly wee crag but the rock is a bit friable and small holds may break off. Protection is however pretty reliable but bring lots of small wires and cams. The area is nice for family picnics, barbecues etc. as there is a nice grassy base. There is a large and slightly loose block at the very top of The Tombstone, be careful what you do up there.
