New access details are described below. Please be aware that fairly large amounts of rubble have been thrown down into and over the crag from the construction site --- A very nice way to treat a national scenic area..!
Introduction The Lookout is a nice wee crag in Kirkcudbrightshire, on the Solway Coast between Sandyhills and Southerness and about 25km southwest of Dumfries. Though there are really only four or five 15m routes the climbing is nice and it's a great area to bring beginners. There is a short approach down a steep slope and great views over the sands of the Mersehead nature reserve on the Solway Firth.
This page was compiled by John Biggar, a professional Mountaineering Instructor and member of the AMI, who lives in SW Scotland. Contact me if you want to know more about climbing in Galloway or want to learn how to climb or abseil. This page was compiled with care, but it is not guaranteed error free.
Access To get here follow the A710 south from Dumfries, through New Abbey and Kirkbean. Lookout for a right turn signposted Southwick Church - this is the road up to Clifton Crag. Just after this there is a big dip in the road and a small parking area by the bridge (NX909558). Park here, room for two or three cars. Cross the road and walk straight towards the sea. At the top of the (very) steep slope turn right and walk almost exactly 50m westwards. Just here there is an easier angled "valley" leading downwards. Go down this for about 20m, turn right again before it steepens and traverse steep grass for 20m, then carry on down a small rocky rib for about 20m before a very short, easy scramble down right and an obvious walk down to the foreshore.
Descent From the top of the Watchtower descend to the right to reach the old approach path. From the Tombstone, scramble steeply down the back of the crag leftwards into a tunnel, through this and on down.
Guidebook Included on this page are the best routes at the crag. I climb and instruct regularly here and have climbed all the routes at this crag. For a definitive list of all the climbs in this area see the SMC published Lowland Outcrops guidebook.
Dangers The crag is almost non-tidal, indeed there is some nice soft grass at the foot of the routes. However at high springs this will be submerged and all routes will be affected. This is a friendly wee crag but the rock is a bit friable and small holds may break off. Protection is however pretty reliable but bring lots of small wires and cams. The area is nice for family picnics, barbecues etc. as there is a nice grassy base. There is a large and slightly loose block at the very top of The Tombstone, be careful what you do up there. Please be aware that as of March 2009 fairly large amounts of rubble have been thrown down into and over the crag from the construction site! --- A very nice way to treat a national scenic area..
