John Biggar.com : Climbing Instructor and Guidebook Author

Rock Climbing in Galloway Index page

Choosing a Crag in Galloway

This page gives some ideas for choosing a rock climbing venue in Dumfries and Galloway.

Click on the links in the table below to get through to a page about each climbing area, with more information and route topos.

We also have a large index page detailing the more important Galloway Climbing areas. Another index page details the Minor Crags of Galloway, those that are smaller, less good, less popular or for which we just don't have photos yet!


This is not a definitive and/or exhaustive table.   Just because a crag is not listed below doesn't mean it might not be good or bad. So all the crags can be midgy and adventurous in the worst conditions, or if you choose the wrong day or wrong route...and you can picnic or barbecue anywhere if you really want to.!

THE BEST

OK

THE WORST

Evening Crags and Socialising

 Clifton Thirlstane, Meikle Ross (certain areas), Corwar (can be bad midges), Garheugh, Portobello Dungeon of Buchan, Tauchers,

Short Walk (or bike)

 Thirlstane, Clifton, The Lookout, Garheugh, Craigdews, Clints of Dromore Meikle Ross, Crammag, Portobello, Craigencallie, Laggantalluch, Clints of Dromore, Corwar, Lions Heid Craignaw, Craiglee, Dungeon of Buchan, Tauchers

Midgy Conditions

 Any sea cliff such as Meikle Ross, Laggantalluch, Garheugh, Crammag, Portobello Clifton (daytime) Corwar, Tauchers, Craigencallie, Loch Grannoch, Craigdews

Adventurous

 		Dungeon of Buchan, Clints of the Spout, Laggantalluch, Meikle Ross, Burrow Head, (very!), Mull of Galloway (very!) Crammag, Craigencallie, Snibe Hill, Craignaw Thirlstane (except the Cave Route), Garheugh

Solid Rock & Clean Routes

 Craignaw, Craiglee, Corwar, Clifton , Laggantalluch, Crammag, Dungeon of Buchan, Craighoar, Snibe Hill, Meikle Ross (though some areas are OK), Burrow Head, Monreith, Portobello
 

THE BEST

OK

THE WORST

Good Gear Placements

 Clifton Snibe Hill, Laggantalluch, Crammag, Thirlstane, Clints of Dromore, Lions Heid

Easy Grades

Clints of Dromore, Crammag (Lighthouse Walls), Clifton , Loch Grannoch, Dungeon of Buchan, Craigdews, Snibe Hill, Kiln o the Fuffock, Larbrax

Beginners

Clifton (but quite hard grades), Crammag (Lighthouse Walls), Clints of Dromore (selected routes) Thirlstane (good but limited), Loch Grannoch Portobello  (Primrose Slab only), The Lookout, (small and a bit loose), Clawbelly Hill (too easy?) Most of the sea cliffs.

Bouldering

  Thirlstane, Garheugh, Clifton, Craignaw, Monreith, Snibe Hill, Cat Craig  

Barbecues & Picnics

The Lookout, Thirlstane, Portobello, Crammag (Lighthouse Walls),    

Damp or Showery Conditions

Clifton, Thirlstane, Crammag (Lighthouse Walls), Meikle Ross, The Lookout, Garheugh, Portobello, Crammag (Lighthouse walls) Tauchers, Craigencallie, The Fleshmarket
Quick Drying Clifton, Thirlstane, Crammag (Lighthouse walls) Meikle Ross, The Lookout, Garheugh, Portobello,  Craignaw, Snibe Hill, Tauchers, Craigencallie, The Fleshmarket, Dungeon of Buchan, Laggantalluch,
Winter Sun & Warmth Craigdews, Clifton, Clints of Dromore Snibe Hill,  
 

THE BEST

OK

THE WORST

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