John Biggar.com : Climbing Instructor and Guidebook Author

Rock Climbing in Galloway Index page

Choosing a Crag in Galloway

This page gives some ideas for choosing a rock climbing venue in Galloway.

Click on the links in the table below to get through to a page about each climbing area, with more information and route topos.

We also have a large index page detailing the more important Galloway Climbing areas, and another index page detailing the Minor Crags of Galloway, those that are smaller, less good, less popular or for which we don't have photos yet!


 

This is not a definitive and/or exhaustive table.   Just because a crag is not listed below doesn't mean it might not be good or bad. So all the crags can be midgy and adventurous in the worst conditions, or if you choose the wrong day or wrong route.

THE BEST

OK

THE WORST

Evening Crags and Socialising

 Clifton Thirlstane, Meikle Ross (certain areas), Corwar(can be bad midges), Garheugh, Portobello Dungeon of Buchan, Tauchers, Craignaw

Short Walk (or bike)

 Thirlstane, Clifton, The Lookout, Garheugh, Craigdews Meikle Ross, Crammag, Portobello, Craigencallie, Laggantalluch, Clints of Dromore, Corwar, Lions Head Craignaw, Craiglee, Dungeon of Buchan, Tauchers

Midgy Conditions

 Any sea cliff such as Meikle Ross, Laggantalluch, Garheugh, Crammag, Portobello Clifton (daytime) Corwar, Tauchers, Craigencallie, Loch Grannoch, Craigdews

Adventurous

 		Dungeon of Buchan, Clints of the Spout, Laggantalluch, Meikle Ross, Burrow Head, (very!), Mull of Galloway (very!) Crammag, Craigencallie, Snibe Hill, Craignaw Thirlstane(except the Cave Route), Garheugh

Solid Rock & Clean Routes

 Craignaw, Craiglee, Corwar, Clifton , Laggantalluch, Crammag, Dungeon of Buchan, Craighoar, Snibe Hill, Meikle Ross (though some areas are OK), Burrow Head, Monreith, Portobello
 

THE BEST

OK

THE WORST

Good Gear Placements

 Clifton Snibe Hill, Thirlstane, Clints of Dromore, Lions Heid

Easy Grades

Clints of Dromore Clifton , Loch Grannoch, Dungeon of Buchan, Craigdews Kiln o the Fuffock, Larbrax

Beginners

Clifton (but quite hard grades), Thirlstane, Loch Grannoch Portobello  (Primrose Slab only), The Lookout, Clawbelly Hill Most of the sea cliffs.

Bouldering

  Thirlstane, Garheugh, Clifton, Craignaw, Monreith, Snibe Hill,  

Barbecues & Picnics

The Lookout, Thirlstane, Portobello    

Damp or Showery Conditions

Clifton, Thirlstane Meikle Ross, The Lookout, Garheugh, Portobello, Crammag (Lighthouse walls) Tauchers, Craigencallie, The Fleshmarket
Quick Drying Clifton, Thirlstane, Crammag (Lighthouse walls) Meikle Ross, The Lookout, Garheugh, Portobello,  Craignaw, Snibe Hill, Tauchers, Craigencallie, The Fleshmarket, Dungeon of Buchan, Laggantalluch,
Winter Warmth Craigdews, Clifton, Clints of Dromore Snibe Hill,  
 

THE BEST

OK

THE WORST

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