Pictured above is the big crack of Gloom, a surprisingly good climb..!
Introduction The Fleshmarket lies on Craignelder, an outlier of Cairnsmore of Fleet in the southern Galloway Hills. This page was compiled by John Biggar, a professional Mountaineering Instructor and member of the AMI, who lives locally and was involved in some of the first ascents at The Fleshmarket. Contact me (details above) if you want to know more about climbing in Galloway or want to learn how to climb or abseil. This page was compiled with care, but it is not guaranteed error free.
Access The access is pretty long, quickest by following the un-gated forestry roads as marked on the map up the hill to the west of Craignelder, starting from either Talnotry or near Corwar, on foot or by bike. Follow this road up the hillside below and to the west of the crag to the last zig-zag bend then traverse along an old forestry ride (felled on the upper side now) to the open ground, then steeply uphill to the crag. Alternatively go to the very end of the road when you are almost level with the crag - this is a little bit shorter and less steep but rougher ground.!
Dangers This is a remote mountain crag and can be a bit mossy and grassy. The crag is slow to dry due to a large weeping bog at the top, a week of dry weather is recommended prior to a visit. However the vast majority of the rock is impeccably sound granite. There are lots of adders on this hillside, but not a problem on the routes....so far.!
Descents The best descent is the steep grassy gully just left (looking up) of the tower. Alternatively if you don't like the look of this steep grass toboggan run, continue about 200m further west to an easy walk off. Routes that finish on the tower can be descended by abseil off a spike block, or scramble to the top and walk off.
Gloom is a good route despite the name and appearances, though it leaves you with a very unfinished feel as you are forced to traverse off half way up the crag. Original Route graded HS in the SMC guide is hard for the grade, maybe even at VS.!. Eilte Pinnacle Rib is hard to follow and (possibly) hard for the grade. Adder Country and Kerb Crawler are both very slow to dry, but the wet traverse high up on Kerb Crawler is well protected, not very hard and not badly compromised by the wet. Kerb Crawler is much better route, much less affected by moss, damp, etc. than it appears to be from below.
The picture above is of Kate seconding the central section of The Fleshmarket HVS 4c, just about to start the awkward traverse. This is a bit of an eliminate line between Eilte Pinnacle Rib and Original Route. Below shows the first ascent of Eilte Pinnacle Rib way back in 1982 or so. This picture thanks to Ian and Kenny Livingston of AD Livingston and Sons.
Eilte Pinnacle first ascent photo © Ian and Kenny Livingston
